Yosemite and the Eastern Slope of the Sierras

October 19, 2017 bruce dane

Bodie Ghost Town

From Yosemite, Josh and I took the Tioga Pass Road (still open in early October) to Lee Vining, then a short trip north on Hwy. 395 to Bodie. Bodie is an original mining town from the late 1800’s. What’s left today stands in a state of “arrested decay” and is maintained by the California State Parks System, who took over the town in 1962 to make it a State Historic Park.

Typical Bodie interior. Most buildings look like they were abandoned without a backwards glance.

"Teach us to number our days, that we may apply our hearts unto wisdom". (Ps. 90:12)

The Bodie Methodist Church, built in 1882

The Bodie Methodist church was one of two churches in town - the other being Roman Catholic. In addition to the churches, there were at least 65 saloons, numerous brothels and opium dens, and a number of gambling establishments. Plenty of diversions to separate the miners from their money!

The Standard Mine stamping mill in the windows of the Boone store and warehouse.

Winch used to raise and lower miners into the hard rock shafts, and to lift ore from the mines.

The Standard Mine stamping mill. In its heyday, the mill processed more than $14 million worth of gold and silver in 25 years. This remains the most in-tact stamping mill in California. It's open for guided tours only, and we missed the tour se… — The Standard Mine stamping mill. In its heyday, the mill processed more than $14 million worth of gold and silver in 25 years. This remains the most in-tact stamping mill in California. It's open for guided tours only, and we missed the tour season!

Mono Lake

We visited Mono Lake on our way back from Bodie. It's a fascinating area and I wish we would have had more time to enjoy the solitude and walk the shoreline. Our plans for some sunrise images didn't pan out, but we were able to catch some moonset pictures of an (almost) full moon. This is definitely a place I want to visit again. If you're in the area, Nicely's Restaurant in Lee Vining serves a great breakfast.

Lying at the edge of the arid Great Basin and the snowy Sierra Nevada mountains in California, Mono Lake is an ancient saline lake that covers over 70 square miles and supports a unique and productive ecosystem. The lake has no fish; instead it is home to trillions of brine shrimp and alkali flies. Freshwater streams feed Mono Lake, supporting lush riparian forests of cottonwood and willow along their banks. Along the lake shore, scenic limestone formations known as tufa towers rise from the water's surface. Millions of migratory birds visit the lake each year.

Tufa towers are formed when underwater springs pump calcium-saturated water through the lake bed. When the spring water meets the alkaline lake water, calcium and carbonate salts react to form insoluble calcium carbonate (limestone), which precipitates out, settling in mineral deposits around the spring. When the lake level drops, these tufa towers are exposed.

Yosemite

The park was beautiful. Crowds were bigger than we anticipated, but it's prime climbing season and people from all over the world come to challenge the big granite walls of Yosemite. The week before our arrival, rock falls from El Capitan injured several climbers/hikers; sadly, one died.

The weather was glorious! Sunny days and cool, clear nights. A few controlled burns were smoldering, creating some smoke. But it was generally clear as long as the wind was favorable. Most all of the water falls were still active, which I've been told is unusual for this late in the year.

These images aren't very original - many artists over the years have captured the beauty of Yosemite infinitely better. But the views are so breathtaking, it's hard not to try and capture it, even imperfectly.

Half Dome and Tenaya Canyon from Glacier Point

Above - El Capitan and the Merced River in Yosemite ValleyLeft - Half Dome and Mirror Lake — Above - El Capitan and the Merced River in Yosemite Valley
Left - Half Dome and Mirror Lake

We stayed at Big Trees Lodge, one of the oldest mountain resort hotels in California, and a classic of Victorian era resort design. Built in 1876, it is one of the few historical period hotels still standing within Yosemite National Park's boundaries. The rooms are furnished consistent with the Victorian period; antique furniture and no telephones or televisions.

The rooms were comfortable and kind of a nice change of pace from more modern hotels.

We waited for our dinner in the large lobby, drinking cocktails and listening to piano music. Definitely an early 20th century atmosphere - but very pleasant.

Half Dome, Liberty Cap and Nevada Falls from Glacier Point

Anza-Borrego State Park

March 26, 2017 bruce dane

Sculpture by Richard Breceda, Borrego Springs, California

I recently visited Anza Borrego State Park to check out the "super bloom" of desert flowers resulting from the welcome rains of this winter. And the flowers didn't disappoint!

The park and the town of Borrego Springs are also home to many fascinating metal sculptures created by Richard Breceda. He was originally a construction worker, but an injury prevented him from continuing. So he started welding realistic and fanciful creatures and placed them within the desert landscape of the town. There are over one hundred of them and they're quite amazing.

The park is about three hours south of Los Angeles and is the largest in California. The town of Borrego Springs is situated entirely within the park borders and offers lots of nice restaurants and tourist attractions.

Prickly Pear Blossom and Desert Dandelion

Richard Breceda Sculpture

A giant sea serpent "swimming" across the desert sands! By Richard Breceda

An elephant - sort of. By Richard Breceda

Super Moon Over Claremont

November 29, 2016 bruce dane

I captured this image at around 6:25 PM on November 13, 2016. It is the "super moon" rising over Mason Hall on the campus of Pomona College.

Colorado Road Trip

October 17, 2016 bruce dane

A fall visit with my son to three wonderful parks in Colorado - Rocky Mountain, Great Sand Dunes and the Colorado National Monument.

ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK

Although we came late in the year, the weather was mostly good. But I unknowingly picked the busiest weekend of the year - Elk Fest in Estes Park - for our visit. We lingered into the following week and the crowds thinned out considerably. The Aspen and Cottonwood colors were just a bit past their prime, but they still were beautiful!

We visited the historic Stanley Hotel, a.k.a the Overlook Hotel, made famous in the movie "The Shining". They offer lots of related items in gift shop as well as ghost tours, so the film has been a money maker for them. If you are in Estes Park, it's definitely worth a visit.

The Stanley Hotel in Estes Park - star of the movie "The Shining"

This is the rutting season for the elk and they draw tremendous crowds of tourists

Long's Peak - the tallest in the park at 14'259 feet

Driving the Trail Ridge Road is a wonderful experience. When you visit, travel the full length of the road to get an appreciation of the ecosystems of the park; Montane in the lower elevations, Subalpine up to 11'000 feet, and Alpine above 11'000 feet. Eye candy around every turn!

GREAT SAND DUNES NATIONAL PARK

Great Sand Dunes Park is definitely off the beaten path, but it's an amazing place. Because the official season was over, there were few people there when we visited. The main attraction, of course, are the immense sand dunes. The Great Sand Dunes sit on a large area of "High Desert" land in the San Luis Valley, just west of the Sangre De Cristo Mountains. The dunes were formed from sand and soil deposits of the Rio Grande and its tributaries, flowing through the San Luis Valley. Over the ages, glaciers feeding the river and the vast lake that existed upon the valley melted, and the waters evaporated. Westerly winds picked up sand particles from the lake and river flood plain. As the wind lost power before crossing the Sangre de Cristo Range, the sand was deposited on the east edge of the valley. This process continues, and the dunes are slowly growing. The park and preserve also contain alpine lakes and tundra, six peaks over 13'000 feet and forests, grasslands, and wetlands.

Milky Way at Great Sand Dunes National Park

Silence - incredible silence - is phenomenal here. Around sundown, when even the few visitors who were there were tucking in for the night, the only sound was the wind. No traffic, no jets, no mechanical or human voices for miles. Even the birds were silent. And when the wind paused, I could almost hear the blood flow running through my ears! It was an amazing experience.

And the night sky is a sight to behold. There is no artificial light pollution because there are no towns near the park. The closest town is Blanca and it's small. The stars and the Milky Way are revealed as they are in few other locations in the U.S. I can remember skies like this when I was growing up, but that was a long time ago! If you're a star gazer, this is the place to be, especially late in the season when the temperatures are quite cool and the air is exceptionally clear.

There are primitive and developed camp grounds in the park and an RV park and lodge just outside the park entrance. The facilities are simple but of good quality. The Lodge, in particular, offers a great place to stay if you're not RV'ing or tent camping.

Sunrise at Great Sand Dunes National Park

COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT

Colorado National Monument is located in Fruita, Colorado, about twenty five minutes outside of Grand Junction. It lies directly off of I-70, but judging from the view from the freeway, you'd never guess it was there.

The area was first explored by John Otto, a free spirit who settled in Grand Junction in the early 20th century. Prior to Otto's arrival, many area residents believed the canyons to be inaccessible to humans. Otto began building trails on the plateau and into the canyons. As word spread about his work, the Chamber of Commerce of Grand Junction sent a delegation to investigate. The delegation returned praising both Otto's work and the scenic beauty of the wilderness area, and the local newspaper began lobbying to make it a National Park.

The area was established as Colorado National Monument on May 24, 1911. The park became more well known in the 1980s partly due to its inclusion as a stage of the major international bicycle race, the Coors Classic.[1]

[1] Wikipedia

Independence Rock, with the Book Cliffs on the distant horizon.

There are two entrances to the Monument; one from the east out of Grand Junction and the other from Fruita to the west. For those with vertigo or who are not comfortable with heights, I suggest the Fruita entrance because you'll be (mostly) in the inside lane during the steep climb up the sandstone cliffs. The Rim Rock Drive is a remarkable example of human engineering during the days when such roads were chiseled out of the cliffs by men with picks, shovels and dynamite.

Fruita Canyon and Rim Rock drive near west entrance to the monument.

Big Horn Sheep that crossed my path on the trail

The Coke Ovens - Colorado National Monument

Saddlehorn campground near the visitor's center accommodates tents and some RV's. There are lots of opportunities for backcountry camping, too. Hiking trails range from strenuous to easy, with abundant wildlife (especially bighorn sheep) and plenty of dizzying views off of sheer cliffs.

Mission San Diego de Alcalá

August 24, 2016 bruce dane

Painting of the mission as it appeared in 1848 with the covered portico extending across the church entrance.  (image courtesy of Wikipedia) — *Painting of the mission as it appeared in 1848 with the covered portico extending across the church entrance. (image courtesy of Wikipedia)*

On July 16, 1769 Fr. Junipero Serra raised the cross, said Mass at the site chosen for the chapel and formally founded Mission San Diego de Alcalá on a hill overlooking the bay. It was the first of twenty one missions that would eventually be established in the Spanish empire of Alta California. The original settlement consisted of very primitive brush covered huts. Resistance from the local Tipai people began almost immediately, leaving a number of dead on both sides just weeks after the mission was established.

In 1774, the mission was relocated to its present location about six miles northeast of the original site. By 1808 the population reached fifteen hundred and the construction of a new, larger church – the third one on the present site – was begun. In 1811 cracks in the church roof developed and the two buttresses at the front entrance were added to provide additional structural support. The church was completed around 1813.

*Mission ruins circa 1900 (image courtesy of Creative Commons)*

From 1777 through the early years of the 1820’s, the mission grew but was never considered among the most prosperous of the California missions. It was quickly abandoned during the secularization of the missions by Mexico, and by 1836 the church and other mission buildings had begun to deteriorate, the adobe walls melting back into the earth. The arrival of Americans following California statehood only accelerated the neglect of the mission – distained as a foreign relic of a bygone culture. From 1849 to 1857, the American military used the old church as a barracks and stable. When they left, time and the elements began their grim work on what remained of the church and mission buildings. By the late 19th century, all that remained of the church was its façade, the two buttresses, the base of the bell tower, the baptistery arch, and one room of the convento (the priest's residence).

The mission facade circa 1900 prior to restoration efforts  (image courtesy of Wikipedia) — *The mission facade circa 1900 prior to restoration efforts (image courtesy of Wikipedia)*

The turn of the century brought a revival of interest in the history of the missions and early Spanish culture of Alta California. Serious restoration of Mission San Diego started in the 1920’s. Here's a link to photos of the bell tower reconstruction circa 1930. Reconstruction of the church in 1931 followed contemporary standards of historical accuracy and, whenever possible, used materials identical or similar to the original structure of 1813. Although it’s mostly a reconstruction, today’s church, both exterior and interior, represents as close as possible the dimensions and appearance of the original 1813 building.

*The main altar. No records exist of the original design. The current church is built on the footprint of the 1813 church. The darker floor tiles are original.*

*Mission churches tend to be long, high, and narrow. The building's width was limited to the length of logs available to construct ceiling beams.*

The mission's Sanctuary Light, signifying the presence of Christ in the Tabernacle. After so many years of neglect and abandonment of the mission, it's wonderful and profound to see it burning once again.

The baptistry is one of only a few remnants of the Mission Basilica still standing from the original church of 1813. The font is a replica of the stone basin from the Church of St. Peter in Petra, Mallorca, Spain. The Petra font was where Father Jun… — The baptistry is one of only a few remnants of the Mission Basilica still standing from the original church of 1813. The font is a replica of the stone basin from the Church of St. Peter in Petra, Mallorca, Spain. The Petra font was where Father Junipero Serra was baptized.

*Most early mission buildings had high windows for both protection and structural strength, minimizing the weight of adobe above each window that the frame had to support.*

The missions are a spiritual and physical memorial to the peoples of California. Their history is both brutal and glorious and reflects the complexity that accompanies periods of seismic cultural change. For Fr. Junípero Serra and his Franciscans, the Age of Missions was an opportunity to bring souls to God. And although their evangelization effort was frequently uninformed and naive, I think it was mostly genuine and even divinely inspired. For the government and soldiers of New Spain, it was necessary to protect remote Alta California from incursions of Russian and English traders and settlers. The soldiers could be less charitable than the clergy they accompanied and frequently treated the natives with contempt and brutality. The indigenous peoples suffered profoundly, their culture and ways of life quickly destroyed as the New World, inevitably, overran the old.

*View of the mission gardens with statue of St. Francis.*

These images reflect the personal impact these old sites have for me. My goal is to eventually visit all twenty one missions along El Camino Real. Some of the photos are purely documentary, others will hopefully inspire a reflection on the remarkable history behind the sites. The missions are an enduring testimonial to the faith, persistence and suffering of the people that built them. The Golden Age of California Missions lasted from 1769 to 1834.

Glacier National Park

October 2, 2015 bruce dane

In late September my son and I visited Glacier National Park for the first time. The company was great, the weather was glorious and the landscape - well, it's truly spectacular. These photos don't come close to doing it justice. If you've never been here, go and be transformed!

Morning at Bowman Lake - Glacier National Park

Bowman Lake is in the northwest section of the park, a bit remote from the more popular visitor spots. It's not easy to get there but well worth the effort. Late in the season you'll be rewarded with profound silence, serenity and a pretty good chance of seeing big wildlife.

Allen Mountain as seen from Many Glacier Road

The rain stayed mostly on the west side of the park, where it's typically wetter than the higher elevation east side from where this image was taken.

This neat hotel is situated just outside the southwest corner of Glacier National Park, in the town of Essex. It's a good place to stay if you want a taste of early twentieth century rustic - lots of log beams, wood paneling, animal heads on the walls and great stone fireplaces. It was originally built to house workers on the Great Northern Railway, whose right-of-way passes directly in front of the hotel. It's been completely refurbished and now caters to rail fans, winter sports enthusiasts and those looking for something less hectic that the busy park lodges. The restaurant is quite good, as is the wine list. You can even get a room in a converted railroad caboose! The Amtrak Empire Builder still makes a regular daily stop at the Izaak Walton Inn.

Late September weather can be tricky - snow isn't unusual and can limit access to parts of the park. But if the weather cooperates, it's a perfect time to visit - crowds are light, the Aspens are at their peak and wildlife is active

Mount Clements on the trail to Hidden Lake

Heaven's Peak from Going-to-the-Sun Road

Going-To-The-Sun Road is a "must drive" when you visit Glacier. It was completed in 1932 and hugs the side of the mountain, blending beautifully with the landscape and offering stunning views of McDonald Valley and the surrounding country side. Eye candy around every turn!

Joshua Tree National Park

March 19, 2015 bruce dane

This is Joshua Tree National Park, about 150 miles east of Los Angeles. It offers wonderful desert scenery, hiking and camping and is a world class rock climbing destination. Portions of both the Mojave and Sonoran deserts share the park, offering a perfect place for desert lovers to enjoy. Come in summer if you like the sun! Severe clear skies and day time temperatures almost always well above 100 degrees F. It’s one of my favorite parks!

Since I have some time on my hands at the moment, I went back through some old images and resurrected them for this post. Most of these shots were taken in 2008 – 2011.

Mt. San Gorgonio from Joshua Tree National Park

Snow covered Mt. San Gorgonio, the highest peak in Southern California - 11'500 feet.

Rock formations in the vicinity of White Tank campgrounds

Lots of things out here that prick, stick, stab and bite!

According to Wikipedia, “The name Joshua tree was given by a group of Mormon settlers who crossed the Mojave Desert in the mid-19th century. The tree's unique shape reminded them of a Biblical story in which Joshua reaches his hands up to the sky in prayer.” But that may be more myth than fact. Here’s an interesting link with some insight and background on how the park’s namesake might have gotten its name.

Rogersville, Tennessee

January 9, 2015 bruce dane

Rogersville is the second oldest town in Tennessee. It was settled in 1775 by the grandparents of Davey Crockett. In 1777 they perished in an Indian attack and are buried in the city park that bears their name. The town’s location along what was a major stagecoach route helped it grow and prosper. Rogersville’s rich historic legacy includes the state’s oldest original courthouse still in use, the state’s first newspaper and post office, and Tennessee’s oldest continuously operated inn. Tucked into the northeast corner of Tennessee, it's a beautiful spot that we called home for several happy years.

Early morning along Highway 11W - Rogersville

A hot summer afternoon along Highway 11W in Rutledge Tennessee, just west of Rogersville

Tennessee Newspaper and Printing Museum in Rogersville's old depot building — Tennessee Newspaper and Printing Museum in Rogersville's old depot building

George Roulstone was Tennessee's first printer. He was encouraged to settle in Rogersville by the new governor of the Southwest Territory,William Blount. Roulston printed Tennessee's first newspaper on November 5, 1791. Known as the cradle of Tennessee journalism, the town's printing heritage is chronicled in its Tennessee Newspaper and Printing Museum located in the historic Southern Railway depot.

Near Rogersville, Pressmen's Home was the headquarters for the International Printing Pressmen and Assistants Union of North America from 1911-67. The facility included a trade school, a sanitarium, a retirement home, a hotel, a post office, a chapel, a hydroelectric power production plant, and other facilities designed to make it a self-sufficient community. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places as a historic district. Sadly, it lies mostly in ruins.

September "Cruise In" downtown Rogersville. Music, food and lots of nice cars!

Window of the Southern Railway Depot - circa 1890 - on July 4th

The historic Hale Springs Inn was built in 1824 by John A. McKinney and has served as an inn and tavern continuously since its opening. Andrew Jackson, Andrew Johnson, and James Polk were all guests at the inn. After some years of neglect, it has been restored and is now a bed and breakfast/fine dining restaurant. Highly recommended!

Roadside harvest decorations at a farm along Highway 70

The Hawkins County Courthouse in Rogersville is the seat of county government for Hawkins County. It was built in 1836 and is one of six antebellum courthouses still in use in Tennessee. It is the second oldest courthouse in use in the state and has recently undergone a complete renovation.

Here's looking at you, kid! Taken along Memory Lane in Caney Valley — Here's looking at you, kid! Taken along **Memory Lane** in Caney Valley

Farm and the Devil's Nose - Caney Creek Road, Rogersville — Farm and the **Devil's Nose** - Caney Creek Road, Rogersville

Redstone Colorado

December 13, 2014 bruce dane

These are some snapshots we took on a side trip to Redstone and Marble during a Thanksgiving visit to Colorado

Coke ovens along Highway 133 in Redstone Colorado

These ovens were built in the late 1800’s by the Colorado Fuel and Iron Company. They were manned by East European immigrants who made their home in the company town of Redstone that grew up around the coking operations. By 1909 all mining operations ended because it became uneconomical to ship coke from Redstone. The ovens shut down and the population of Redstone plummeted. The neglected and deteriorating ovens were saved by Redstone’s residents and members of the local historical society and are currently being restored.

Marble Community Church, formerly called St. Paul's Church, is a historic Episcopal church at 123 State Street in Marble, Colorado. The church's main building was originally the building of the St. John’s Episcopal Chapel, which was built in Aspen, Colorado in 1886. The church was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1989.

Marble Community Church - Marble Colorado

Cove Fort, Utah

September 6, 2014 bruce dane

We stopped by here for lunch last week on our way back from Colorado. It's an historic LDS site at the intersection of I-70 and I-15 in central Utah. There's a beautiful picnic grove and guided tours of the fort.

Cove Fort was built in 1867 to protect the telegraph lines between Logan and St. George from Indian attacks. The attacks never came. Nevertheless, the fort served as an important outpost for local Mormon settlers as well as a way station for travelers through the territory. Its telegraph and mail services were important communications links until the early 20th century when the fort was no longer needed. It fell into disrepair but beginning in 1988 was restored to its original appearance and furnished with original artifacts as well as historic items from the period.

**Late 19th century drill press at the fort's blacksmith shop.**

The barn is not original but is a replica of the building that was part of the original fort grounds. It was reconstructed using peg, mortise and tenon joining and conforms in all design and construction details to the original.

Given the remote Utah location and severe climate, the fort provided surprisingly nice accommodations for the Hinckley family who built it and lived there, and for the travelers passing through.

**The telegraph office. It also served as the stage station and mail stop.**

**Scarecrow guarding the fort gardens.**

Original doors on the east gate -  in 1867 they were filled with sand to extinguish flaming arrows - not too sure if this would have been an effective strategy. But mercifully, the arrows never came and the residents of the fort had uneasy but … — Original doors on the east gate - in 1867 they were filled with sand to extinguish flaming arrows - not too sure if this would have been an effective strategy. But mercifully, the arrows never came and the residents of the fort had uneasy but relatively peaceful relations with the local tribes, principally the Utes.